Bottle Fairies Snow Globes Fairy's

This is really a fun technique I developed to fuse two transparency's together and yet end up with a solid, not translucent image.

The main benefit is that it is a water proof, oil proof and soap proof image that can be used in snow globes, hand soap decanters, water cards, aquariums, terrariums, plant spikes or as just as a stand alone image.
They say mother of invention is necessity and as I worked with the fairy images I discovered one drawback, I wanted to display several of my projects where they could be seen from the backside, like on my coffee table. They looked really nice from the front but when you walked around behind them they did not look so great. Soon I had developed the new front/back images and that solved that problem.
My new problem was I wanted to shrink them to make little captured fairy charms, like the one you see hanging in the top of the picture. They were just about imposable to cut out that small and to sandwich two images together so they looked good from the front and the back ... well you might as well forget it.
That is how this technique came about. I laser printed them on transparencies so that they would not have to be so intricately cut out. Because they were still translucent, I painted the backside white.
I tried every kind of glue I could think of. They either did not cure, left bubbles or looked milky. Finally I hit on the solution! You can use this technique for making a snow globe bottle fairies and even fairies for your aquarium as the water or oil will not effect them. If you are planning to do a snow globe start several days in advance as you have to wait for the cure time on silicon between each step. A water card is much faster because you can just put the mineral oil or clear liquid soap in a baggie, add the glitter, your images and seal it. I hope you enjoy making many projects with this method!

Thin some white acrylic paint slightly and begin painting your image on the printed side of your transparence as you see in picture 1. If there is wording on your image, make sure you mirror the image before you print it. This way, later when you fuse the images together the paint and toner will be sealed inside. If by chance you have not painted on the back side, the toner will iron off onto your Teflon sheet and ruin your image. Don’t worry if when your are painting your image that you go outside the lines a little, after it has dried turn it over. You will easily be able to see where any paint has gone outside the image. Use a toothpick to scratch it off so there is paint only on the image. Cut the images out leaving a good margin around each one. Place a piece of double stick tape off to the side on an area that will be cut off as you see in picture 2. This will hold it together so it doesn't misalign. Wipe with an eyeglass cloth to remove any paint flakes that may have remained after you cleaned up the image (picture 3). Hold your finger between the front and back transparency so the tap doesn’t stick and line up the two images. Once they are in place remove you finger and allow the double stick tape to hold it in place.

Heat your iron to the highest setting. Place the image on a Teflon sheet, on the ironing board (picture 5). (The sheets you get to work with the ultra thick embossing or to line a toaster oven bottom). Lift one corner of the top image and sprinkle well with clear embossing powder (picture 6). Cover the whole thing with another Teflon sheet. Press iron as hard as you can over the area the image is under. If you are working on a large image, press from the center out to remove any bubbles. Do not lift the Teflon from the image until it has had a chance to cool. Embossing powder will have seeped out the sides and will get everywhere if you do. The two sheets will fuse together leaving the area around it clear :) Then you have a solid image without having to cut out the details especially if you need a tiny image. If after you remove your image from between the Teflon sheets, there are bubbles you can repeat the ironing process pressing hard from the center of the image to the edge but be sure to clean your Teflon sheets before you repeat this step. To clean your iron, put a sheet of scratch paper between the sheets and iron. Continue doing this until all the excess embossing powder had absorbed into the scratch papers.

Trace the opening of your container onto a clean acetate sheet. Put a glob of silicon inside the circle and decorate with whatever you like. Some thing will bleed their color so be careful what you use. You may want to pretest anything your going to use by soaking it in either mineral oil or the soap you intend to use. I tested microbeads and they seem to do well. I also use glass bead flowers I found at our local bead shop. After it has set up a little stick your trimmed image in the center. I attached the wings, crown and wand with E600. I did prop mine up with toothpicks to make sure it stayed in place until the silicon cured. This says it takes 24 hours but I let mine sit two days (picture 9). After a day or two turn your container upside down. I needed to place mine in a cup to keep the opening up. Add your glitter, confetti or what ever you want to float (picture 10). Use a hot awl or an ice pick to poke a hole in the acetate. This will be your fill hole (picture 12). Run a bead of silicon around the edge of your container and place your scene into the container. Run a tiny bead of silicon around the hole to form a little dam so when you fill it the oil or soap will not get everywhere. Let the silicon set up again, 24 hours (picture 12).

Turn it right side up and run a bead of silicon around the bottom edge again… yes, you guessed it … let that set 24 hours (picture 14). Trim away the excess acetate and invert again. Use a syringe to fill the container being careful not to get any outside the dammed area. Be sure to fill it entirely, you don’t want bubbles in your snowglobe. Run a bead of silicon all around the little dam you previously built around the fill hole only make sure to make this bead larger so it is higher than the first one. Press a silicon patch over the hole and let set … again … 24 hours. Cover the entire area with silicon one last time and let it cure before you turn it over and place it on your base. I used a candle base for the base of my snow globe but you could use anything. A few suggestions are tiny mirror, glass coaster or even the drainage dish for a potted plant

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